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So to New York Fashion Week, the first event of the pandemic-doused world that may provide at least the inkling of an answer to the questions that have bloomed around fashion since the moment stores first closed their doors and factories shut down.


Will this time of crisis create any real lasting change in an antiquated system? And what will we actually wear?


Judging by the opening days of fashion week, even in its truncated, almost all digital hybrid form — even with shows that were actually just charming conversations (Carolina Herrera, modeling her new quarantine-white hair, chatting with her successor, Wes Gordon) or shows that were satirical takes on home shopping (the Edie Parker Shopping Network by Brett Heyman starring Lisa Rinna using the collection of fruity acrylic handbags to make fun of her own “Real Housewives” history with Ziplocs of pills) — the answer is a qualified yes.

The early news was made not by clothes, but by the winners of the Council of Fashion Designers of America awards, a.k.a., the Oscars of United States fashion. Of the four designers of the year, three are Black, for the first time in the awards’ history: Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss, who won for men’s wear; Telfar Clemens of Telfar, who won for accessories; and Christopher John Rogers, who was named the top emerging designer. (Gabriela Hearst won for women’s wear.)


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